We began at 10am, in Wellington's Botanical Gardens. The trail begins near what the locals refer to as the "Trippy Tree": an enormous topiary clipped in a circular shape, where the local kids engage in the occasional cigarette or other debaucherous activity. Climbing its thick branches gives one a particularly spectacular view of the city.
The trail snakes around Victoria University's Kelburn campus, which sits perched on one of the many hills encircling the capital. Despite being only a few minutes walk from the political center of New Zealand, the density of the foliage in the area (locals would call it "the bush") is curious and amazing. The trail twists in and out of civilization, with some stretches of the path becoming completely encapsulated in what one might mistake for the Amazon. Most of the bush looks fairly comparable to the deciduous forests of central Pennsylvania, however the mixture of lush tropical plants and thicker canopies make for an entirely unique outdoor experience.
After about an hour or so of trekking through the bush, the trail spills out into the beginning of a relentless expanse of hills (While I use the term "hills" throughout, do not be mistaken about their size. At their best, they can reach some of the low-flying clouds commonly found in the valley). Virtually any spot on these landscapes are perfect for picture taking, and I did not take these opportunities for granted.
Once we left the quiet shade of the forest, we became victims to Wellington's primary adversary: wind. The breezes that roll in from the sea are strong enough to knock you off balance, which is particularly frustrating when you are attempting to climb a staircase with no handrails. Nevertheless, venturing to the top of each hill is, in itself, its own reward.
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| The view from the highest point of the City to Sea Walkway. My Dutch friend, Roos, is pictured on the right. I walked the trail with her and some other friends from Denmark, Germany, and England. |
It was here where we stopped for a quick lunch. If you ever plan to complete the City to Sea trail, you had better bring some sort of meal with you. There are no cafés or dairies on the way, and believe me when I say you will need the energy.
After a few more hours of traversing the hills, we ended up, rather abruptly, in a quaint neighborhood. It was here that I first got a good look at the architecture that one might consider a bit eccentric. The homes are not expansive in any way, nor do they look particularly expensive. But, unlike the Pleastantvillian, cut-and-paste style housing so pervasive in American suburbia, New Zealand's architecture seems to be mostly individual. Most had a 70s style split-level or ranch style to them, but every so often there would be a Victorian tower sticking out of an otherwise modern home. There was no sense of standardization among buildings, which was a refreshing change from the uniformity of my hometown.
The neighborhoods led almost to the edge of the island, where treacherous-looking rocks meet the ocean. In the distance, the South Island is barely visible, almost as if it was a drawing on a movie backdrop. In fact, almost every landscape we witnessed on the trail seemed unreal. Perhaps the reason for this is that I have never been in a place so naturally beautiful before, unless it has been through the medium of the silver screen. Sitting on the sea's edge, and later, thanks to the tides, in the café by the sea's edge, was a perfect ending to an exhausting but wholly worthwhile day.
Shortly after taking the picture above, Poseidon decided he preferred my lower half to be a bit damper than it already was.In the usual fashion, here are a few tips if you feel like walking around New Zealand (or more accurately, when you have to walk around New Zealand. You can't get out of it.):
1. Shoes. For the love of all that is holy, bring hiking shoes. Ones that are comfortable. I made the 14km walk from the city to the sea in about 3 hours with decent shoes, and a day later, my feet are still sore. It is much more economical to bring shoes to New Zealand instead of buying them here, as any decent pair is going to cost you upwards of $150NZ. I got mine at DSW for $40US. Just bring them yourself.
2. A decent camera. If you have an older one that you've been meaning to upgrade, go for it. The landscapes of New Zealand are some of the most breathtaking you will ever see, and a high quality camera will do them justice. Mine is a Sony Cybershot DSC-W570, which takes incredible panoramic shots and HD video, not to mention some of the best image stabilization I've seen on a budget point-and-shoot. It was only about $150 as well, and is the perfect tool for making an amateur photographer's shots look exceptional.
3. A comfortable backpack with plenty of pouches. A bulky, amorphous bag can ruin even the shortest of walks, and not having one is definitely a mistake. My bag is small and loose, so most of my food and things were all mashed together. A light bag with compartments for a water bottle, food, natural souvenirs (I spent a good hour searching both the bush and the shore for shells, fossils, leaves, and all other assortments of special finds) will prevent everything from getting everything else dirty. If you want a lot of hydration for a long hike (or if you want to inconspicuously get drunk in a public place), a camel-back would not be a terrible purchase.
4. A light, well insulated jacket. Many of my friends brought winter jackets, which seems a bit like overkill. They're bulky, stuffy and a hassle to store when not being worn. I unfortunately did not bring any jacket (mine got ruined a few days before I had to leave), instead opting for a few pullovers. These work alright, but a small zippered jacket would be much more convenient.
Goodbye for now!
